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- FASHION, Page 128COUTURE FOR THE COMRADES
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- Though no competition for Armani or Miyake, two young designers
- hope to banish the drab from Soviet closets
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- Katya Mikhulskaya giggles as she shows off her outfit -- a
- red-and-gold-braided army jacket paired with a frilly white
- lace skirt -- then coquettishly pulls up her hem to reveal
- black knee-high jackboots. Mikhulskaya, 23, developed her theory
- of fashion from years of riding the Moscow metro, where she saw
- women wearing a tasteless hodgepodge because the
- state-controlled fashion industry had made it impossible for
- them to put together well-coordinated wardrobes. "When it comes
- to fashion in Moscow," she says, "a sense of humor is especially
- important." Her fellow designer, Katya Fillipova, 29, pokes fun
- at Soviet icons; her creations include a portrait of Lenin
- fastened to a rhinestone cross and sewn onto the jacket of a
- border guard.
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- Mikhulskaya and Fillipova are emerging leaders in the
- avant-garde underworld of Soviet fashion design. They labor
- over sewing machines in cramped apartments shared by husbands
- and children; every drawer is crammed with fabric, zippers and
- buttons scrounged up in state stores and weekend flea markets.
- Thanks to their sardonic use of hallowed Soviet symbols, the two
- women cannot be members of the Society of Soviet Designers, and
- their styles are not bought by Dom Modeli, the state fashion
- center.
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- Nonetheless, Filli pova and Mikhulskaya sell their designs
- (from 100 rubles for a simple jacket to 1,000 rubles for a full
- suit) to a small group of relatively prosperous rock musicians,
- artists and filmmakers. With the aid of newly relaxed travel
- restrictions, the two are hoping to take their creations to New
- York City this fall. Who knows? If the hammer-and-sickle
- designs become popular enough in the West, they may wind up as
- eagerly sought after items in a place that already covets such
- Western garb as T-shirts and dungarees: the Soviet Union.
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